In 2010, CRAG-VT acquired one of the area’s steepest and best sport climbing cliffs: the Carcass Crag! CRAG-VT signed a Purchase and Sale agreement to acquire one of Bolton’s best cliffs through a boundary line adjustment on our Bolton Quarry property. We completed the land purchase and added three additional acres to the Quarry, permanently securing public access to this great crag.
Never been to the Carcass? That’s not a surprise. As with many local cliffs on private land, the Carcass has been a guarded secret for over a decade. Derek Doucet was possibly the first to envision potential on this imposing cliff when he discovered it by accident in the winter of 1998. Doucet had been climbing ice in the Quarry and was preparing to leave when he noticed his Black Lab, Auggie, was missing. A prolonged search turned up Auggie with his head and shoulders buried in a rotting deer carcass, tail wagging ecstatically. Doucet looked up, and there was the cliff – a place whose name will forever memorialize the hapless deer.
Doucet told some friends about his find and that spring Dave Furman established Who’s Your Daddy (5.12c), the Carcass’s mega-classic line. The ‘Daddy was a revelation; a phenomenal route that overnight ushered in the sport climbing techniques and new standards of difficulty that defined the next decade of climbing in northwestern Vermont. It wasn’t long before other great climbs were done on the cliff including Alternative Power (5.12a), Worthless Stud (5.11d) and Progress (5.11a); every route tackling that ominous overhang half way up the cliff. Now that the acquisition is complete Vermont climbers own these excellent climbs!
A huge debt of thanks is due the Access Fund for their generous grant and their continued support. We are greatly indebted to Dr. Richard Katzman. Without his level head and tireless diplomacy, this project would almost certainly have failed. Doctor, words fail how grateful we are for your efforts. Thanks to Seth Maciejowski for writing yet another successful grant! Badass! Thanks to Pam Moreau once again for her legal services and patience. Thanks to the CRAG-VT board for their endless spunk and tenacity, and the great folks in our climbing community that volunteer and support us! Finally, a personal thanks to Paul, Derek, and Dave- climbing with you at the Carcass a decade ago was an inspiration. See you out at the Carcass Crag! —Travis Peckham President, CRAG-VT
Click Here for more information on climbing the Carcass Crag.