Central Vermont and Groton State Park host some of the state’s finest and most under-visited climbing areas. Of these, Marshfield Ledge is the crown jewel. Rising 400 feet from the beautiful forests and wetlands below, this amazing granite cliff offers trad and sport climbing from 5.7 to 5.14. Marshfield Ledge is remarkable in that it is one of the largest cliffs in the northeast without a major highway running under it. Its combination of stunning views and great multi-pitch climbs make it one of the northeast’s finest cliffs.
A short drive from Marshfield ledge is the north-facing Spice Mountain. Spice has a reasonable approach and a handful of nice, short pitches that can be cool and shady on a hot day. This cliff has been infrequently visited since its routes were established and would benefit from some traffic.
For Detailed route descriptions check out the Tough Schist guidebook or the corresponding Rakkup App at www.vermontrock.com