Whether enjoying the views and easy climbs on the diamond-hard quartzite of Lake Dunmore, having an adventure on the lost climbs of Brandon Gap and Bird Mountain, or taking in a great day of schist cragging at Deer Leap, Mid Vermont provides many great options for climbing. The cliffs described in the Mid Vermont region are in the greater Rutland/Middlebury area and surrounding towns.
Lake Dunmore is one of the better beginner areas in the state, with amazing rock, a short approach, and a good selection of top-rope climbs, many in the 5.5 to 5.7 range. Dunmore also hosts a few trad leads but protection tends to be sparse. Deer Leap is a step up in difficulty from Dunmore with high-quality schist routes in the 5.7 to 5.10 range including the classic Center Crack (5.7). Brandon Gap and Bird Mountain are large areas with very few documented climbs. These areas hold potential for new route development and may become more significant climbing areas in the future.
For Detailed route descriptions check out the Tough Schist guidebook or the corresponding Rakkup App at www.vermontrock.com