Pinneo Brook Bouldering
by Pete Cudney
This past year, CRAG-VT negotiated a Memorandum of Understanding with the Pinneo Brook landowners to protecting public use of this gem of a bouldering area. We also collaborated with RMT to support the building of a parking lot that serves the boulder field and mountain biking trails. Given the growing parking challenges across Bolton, this was a major win for long-term access. Haven’t been to the Pinneo Brook boulders yet? Read local legend, Pete Cudney’s, description below.
Pinneo Brook is one of the gems of Bolton bouldering. First developed in the late 90’s with the permission of the landowners at the time, Pinneo Brook is home to some great lines and great settings. The property is now owned by Eastcote Holdings and Pinneo Forest Maple LLC, who have established a significant maple sugaring operation. Fortunately, they’re very open to the use of their land. With landowner support, the Richmond Mountain Trails association has been developing The Driving Range, a new network of mountain bike trails on their property, and they have created a designated parking area. They’ve connected their primary access road to the Catamount Trail, and the landowners have given climbers permission to continue accessing the boulders as well.
The area is perhaps best known for the Generations boulder, a steep chunk of solid schist with a handful of high-quality harder lines. The namesake Generations (V8) and Slice (V8) are definitely worth the approach. If you’re looking for harder lines, this boulder keeps on giving, with problems from V9-V11.
What climbers may not know is that on the way to Generations, they’re passing by a few other boulders that really deserve attention. Lower on the east side of the brook, Kanga (V6) is a proud highball that is intimidating until you learn the problem and how to manage the hillside landing. It requires a balance of timing, precision, and the perfect momentum to land the crux hold.
A few hundred feet uphill of Kanga, the road crosses the brook, and a few hundred feet further sits the Colonel Troutman boulder, between the road and the edge of the brook. Every problem on this boulder is great (V4-V8), and the holds have that satisfying riverside buff to them. Colonel Troutman is a great series of sloping crimps with a fun dynamic move at the end. Tough to grade, as it often seems impossible until it flows with seeming ease, it’s gotten suggestions from V6 to V8.
Immediately across the brook from Colonel Troutman is a large roof with a mix of solid and chossy rock. Starting sitting on the right-hand end of the roof is the super fun Curmudgeon (V5), a great mix of powerful long lock offs on good crimps, and a quality top out with slopers and perhaps a mantle.
While all these boulders sit along Pinneo Brook and the access road that parallels the brook, other boulders are scattered uphill in the next small creek-wash to the west of Pinneo Brook. Harder to find, a 15-minute uphill hike on an old logging road, and a right turn up the steep hillside at just the right spot will get you to the Satellite Boulders. These are a different stone, similar to the Alien Boulder and the Eighth Grade Boulder, with a gritty texture like course sandstone. High quality climbing awaits on these obscure boulders in a magical setting. Because their isolation and solitude is part of the magic, I’ll just leave you curious and encourage you to wander up into them hills in search. Or just ask, I’m happy to show you.
Photo Credit: Sam Simon
