State Lands:
Smugglers’ Notch, Mount Pisgah, Marshfield Ledge & Mount Wheeler

Cliff Steward: 
Guidebook: Tough Schist
Mountain Project: 
Smugglers’ Notch, Mount Pisgah, Wheeler Mountain, Marshfield Ledge
Access Beta & Closures page

The Climbing: Some of Vermont’s best rock and ice climbing and bouldering is found on state of Vermont lands including Mt. Pisgah, Smuggler’s Notch, Mount Wheeler and Marshfield Ledge.  The relationship between CRAG-VT and ANR has been extremely fruitful over the years and has established uniform guidelines for climbers to follow when using state lands.   

Access Beta: 

Access Story: In 2016, CRAG-VT, in collaboration with the State of Vermont Agency of Natural Resources, completed a Memorandum of Understanding and a Climbing Management plan for climbing resources located on lands held by the state of Vermont.  This agreement was the culmination of 5 years of work by CRAG-VT to establish a solid working relationship with ANR.  Through this collaboration, CRAG-VT described the usage patterns and impacts of climbers on the resource and how climbing is managed on other private and public lands.  With the formal adoption of the MOU and Climbing Management Plan, CRAG-VT has become the de facto liaison between the ANR and the climbing community.  CRAG-VT and the ANR meet yearly to review climbing activity on public lands and any new developments. We discuss any potential areas of friction with other users and any impacts on natural communities that might have arisen.  Then, working together, we develop plans to mitigate these issues so that climbers can retain access to the extensive opportunities available on state lands. 

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Photography: Ted Schiele
Photography: Ted Schiele
Protect Vermont Climbing