Northern and Central Vermont have a storied history of climbing, development, and established access. But what about Southern Vermont?
For climbers in other regions of the state, Southern Vermont is a place shrouded in mystery; from random coordinates for boulders and cliffs dropped within the depths of the Green Mountain National Forest to questionable access, black flies, stinging nettles, and local secrecy – it can be difficult to find the motivation to explore these areas.
As I was brainstorming topics for this article, one word came to mind: opportunity. Development here is largely still in its infancy. There are some well-established quality areas – Deer Leap in Killington boasts various sport and trad routes with a spectacular view and bouldering at Bromley Forest rivals Smugglers Notch – however, Southern Vermont has much more to offer. For one, it is a geologically unique place with many different types of rock. In one day, it is possible to climb on Granite, Limestone, Gneiss, Schist, Quartzite, Marble, and everything in between. If you are an explorer and up for an adventure, look no further. First ascents are plentiful, the forests are dense and pristine, and there is an interesting discovery lingering around every corner.
The opportunity is here, but it takes vision; vision to see what seemingly choss-laden cliffs may become (and LOTS of work), vision to peel off thick layers of ferns and moss from stone giants, and vision to understand just how beneficial it is to share all of this with the greater climbing community as long as climbers maintain mutual respect for the land and those that inhabit it. It is impossible to know what lies beneath the dense canopy in plentiful deciduous and coniferous forests, in our steep valleys, and beyond. One can explore these places for a lifetime and never gain a true understanding of what may lie ahead. With many important projects on the horizon for Southern Vermont, we need the help and recognition of Vermont’s greater climbing community.
Rutland RegionGreen Brook
Green Brook has many interesting glacial erratics on hillsides and several wooded glens. The rock is somewhat abrasive and has a unique texture – it’s not for everyone – but it makes for very unique climbing. If visiting, prepare for Stinging Nettles and a steep hike up the hillside to different boulders. In addition, the Pyramid has a number of very hard projects left. During summer, the Black Flies are voracious…be prepared. The best seasons to visit are late spring just before the Black Flies spawn, or through the cooling temperatures of fall. If one wishes to boulder alone and in peace with no outside distractions, this is the place. It is truly serene.
DEKD Killington
The name is pronounced “decked”, for those who don’t know (silly, but it stuck!). DEKD houses a beautiful collection of glacial erratics on a ridge in Killington, VT. The area is easily accessed from the Appalachian Trail and most of the boulders are one minute or less off of the trail. This is primarily a bouldering area with great rock, easy access, and a beautiful setting. Currently, there are around 110 developed problems. If one is in the area, DEKD makes for an excellent evening or hot afternoon destination. Every boulder is shaded by the dense foliage above. Make sure to try Dirty Crack, an area classic.
Deer Leap
This scenic cliff overlooking Pico is home to about 25-30 high-quality trad climbs and some mixed climbs (i.e. bolts and gear). The cliff faces south and can be quite windy on occasion. Access is easy; follow a climbers path that bears up and left off of the Long Trail by the parking area. After a long day of climbing, pop into the Inn at Long Trail for a Guinness, entertainment, and some food.
Manchester Region
Danby Quarry
Though largely man-made, the Danby Quarry boasts high-quality sport climbing on water-formed marble. This area makes for an excellent day trip and has a variety of routes to choose from. Member-at-large Danny Jezer poured his heart and soul into making this area what it is today, the local climbing community can’t thank him enough!
Bromley Forest
Boulders, boulders everywhere; starting alongside Route 11 and up in the woods behind the AT/LT parking lot. It is a little noisy due to the close proximity of Route 11 and Route 30, but the rock quality and quantity of problems make up for it. The rock is high-quality Gneiss. Here, one will find some of the best problems in Southern Vermont. Through the years, many climbers have made their mark here. For a while, it was one of those local secrets. It is important to extend a big thank you to everyone who has put in the hard work to make this area what it is now. Tom McCabe, his family, and his students at UNH have been pivotal in the development process. Now, this area is a staple of the Southern Vermont region for generations of climbers to enjoy. In addition, the Green Mountain National Forest Service has given climbers access to this expansive area, marking an important partnership between CRAG-VT and the Forest Service.
Ball Mountain DamBall Mountain Dam may very well be the next Rumney; there are cliffs everywhere! In Danny Jezer’s words, “I started to climb at the dam about 4 to 5 years ago; each year just trying to figure out the maze of cliffs and boulder fields that make up the area. The first several times I went I didn’t even get to climb anything because I didn’t know where to start”. His statement says it all. Danny has scoped out many hard projects just waiting to be bolted. Currently, there are a small number of established routes that vary from 40 feet to 100 feet tall on five different cliffs, each a ten-minute walk from one another. This is one of those areas that screams opportunity!
These areas account for a very small percentage of what Southern Vermont has to offer. CRAG-VT’s tentatively accepted MOU with the Green Mountain National Forest Service allows access for climbing on much of the 400,000 acres of their land. Many other areas are on private property and access is unofficial or restricted. With the help of CRAG-VT and Vermont’s climbing community, more of these restricted areas will become places for climbers – and any outdoor recreationist for that matter – to enjoy.
While you are here, make sure to stop by Green Mountain Rock Climbing Center in Rutland, Vermont to say hello, climb, and get some local beta. Steve Lulek, the owner, has been an influential and passionate figure for the climbing community in the southern regions of the state. Steve also operates Vermont Adventure Tours, a guiding service based in the area.
Remember, as climbers, it is important to be stewards of the environment and of these areas. In addition, one must uphold respect and appreciation for other people enjoying the land, other climbers, landowners, and the nonprofit organizations establishing permanent access for all. Climb to have fun and be happy, climb because it’s fulfilling, climb to stay healthy; don’t litter, don’t be disrespectful, and be safe!
Get out there and explore!
