Purpose
Developing a climbing route is one of the most lasting contributions a climber can make to Vermont’s climbing community. A thoughtfully developed route may be enjoyed for generations. Just as importantly, thoughtful development helps preserve the relationships with landowners, land managers, and the broader public that make climbing in Vermont possible.
This document is intended as a statement of best practices and community norms for route development in Vermont. It is not a policy, nor is it intended to regulate or govern the actions of individual climbers. Rather, it reflects the collective experience of Vermont climbers and encourages an approach to route development that emphasizes stewardship, collaboration, and long-term thinking.
Every climbing area is unique. The history, character, ownership, environmental considerations, and climbing ethics of one cliff may differ significantly from another. Good judgment, open communication, and humility are often more valuable than any single recommendation contained in this document.
While these recommendations are not rules, they reflect the practices that have helped preserve Vermont climbing for decades. Significant departures from these community norms may create unnecessary conflict and, more importantly, jeopardize the trust of landowners and public land managers upon which climbing access depends.
Background
Recreational climbing in Vermont began to grow in the middle of the twentieth century, with both traditional and, later, sport climbing becoming established throughout the state.
Over the past several decades Vermont’s climbing resources have expanded dramatically. Areas that were once known only to a handful of climbers now see regular visitation, and today’s guidebook, Vermont Rock, and online resources like Mountain Project, document thousands of climbing routes and boulders.
As the climbing community continues to grow, new opportunities for route development will continue to arise alongside new challenges. Many of Vermont’s most significant cliffs have already seen substantial development, while existing routes and hardware will increasingly require maintenance and replacement. At the same time, maintaining access depends upon protecting natural resources and preserving the confidence of landowners and public agencies.
In collaboration with route developers and the climbing community, and in accordance with conventional best practices, CRAG-VT developed this statement to communicate the principles that have guided thoughtful route development in Vermont for many years.
Guiding Principles
The following principles form the foundation of responsible route development in Vermont.
Stewardship
Protecting Vermont’s cliffs and surrounding natural resources should always take precedence over creating new climbing opportunities.
Respect for Access
Climbing access depends upon the goodwill of private landowners and the cooperation of public land managers. Every route developer shares responsibility for maintaining those relationships.
Community
Route development is a contribution to the climbing community. Communication, collaboration, and respect for differing perspectives produce better climbing and healthier climbing areas.
Quality Over Quantity
Not every climbable section of rock should become a climbing route. Thoughtful restraint is an important part of good route development. Routes that offer lasting value, independent character, and a positive climbing experience contribute more to the community than simply increasing the number of available climbs.
Long-Term Thinking
Developers should strive to create routes that will remain enjoyable and environmentally sustainable for decades rather than focusing solely on immediate climbing opportunities.
Before You Develop
Successful route development begins long before any rock is cleaned or hardware is installed. Before establishing a new route, take time to understand both the climbing history and management of the area.
Whenever possible:
- Determine who owns or manages the land.
- Learn whether others have previously explored or considered developing the cliff.
- Understand the history of existing routes.
- Talk with experienced local climbers who know the area.
- Learn the area’s local ethics and accepted route development practices.
Many misunderstandings—and many unnecessary conflicts—can be avoided through early conversations.
Route development is a craft best learned through mentorship. Books and online resources are valuable, but nothing replaces working alongside experienced route developers who understand Vermont’s rock, access issues, hardware practices, and climbing traditions.
Experienced developers often spend far more time evaluating a potential line than developing it. Walking away from a marginal route is just as much a part of good route development as drilling bolts or cleaning rock.
If you have questions about access, local ethics, environmental considerations, or route development practices, reach out to CRAG-VT. We may be able to connect you with local climbers, land managers, or experienced route developers who can provide helpful guidance before work begins.
Before beginning development, ask yourself:
- Do I understand who owns or manages this land?
- Have I talked with climbers who know this area?
- Do I understand the local ethics and history?
- Have I considered environmental impacts?
- Am I confident this route adds lasting value?
- If I’m unsure, have I reached out to CRAG-VT?
Landowner and Land Manager Relationships
Access is one of Vermont climbing’s most valuable resources.
Whether climbing occurs on private land, public land, or CRAG-VT property, route development should only occur with the knowledge and permission of the appropriate landowner or land management agency.
Developers are encouraged to:
- Obtain permission whenever development occurs on land where permission is required.
- Understand any restrictions regarding parking, seasonal closures, or public access.
- Learn applicable permitting requirements.
- Honor all agreements made with landowners or agencies.
Strong relationships built on communication, trust, and respect help ensure that climbing opportunities remain available for future generations.
Environmental Stewardship
Thoughtful route development balances new climbing opportunities with protection of Vermont’s natural environment. Every cliff presents different environmental considerations, and careful planning can minimize impacts while preserving the character of the area.
Developers are encouraged to:
- Avoid cliffs containing nesting birds, rare plants, or other sensitive ecological resources.
- Minimize unnecessary scrubbing or cleaning of rock.
- Avoid heavily vegetated cliffs, where substantial damage to the ecology would be required to develop a climb.
- Avoid altering the rock beyond what is reasonably necessary to remove loose or unsafe material.
- Respect culturally or historically significant sites.
- Follow Leave No Trace principles throughout development.
- Do not build permanent installations such as landing platforms for bouldering, tent platforms for camping, bridges, etc.
When considering a new route, developers should think beyond the climb itself. Consider how climbers will approach the cliff, where they will gather, where erosion may develop, and how increased use over many years may affect trails, staging areas, vegetation, and the surrounding landscape. The long-term impact of a route is influenced less by the number of routes at a cliff than by how people use the area over time.
Route Design
Creating an enjoyable climbing route involves far more than installing bolts and cleaning out cracks.
Developers should consider:
- Giving routes independent starts and finishes whenever practical.
- Avoiding routes that crowd or diminish existing climbs.
- Respecting the character and spacing of established routes.
- Placing protection that reasonably addresses fall potential while preserving the intended climbing experience.
- Considering climbers of different heights when determining fixed-protection locations.
- Choosing route names thoughtfully and respectfully, recognizing that they become a lasting part of Vermont’s climbing history.
Good routes often appear obvious in hindsight. Achieving that simplicity usually requires careful planning and thoughtful restraint. If the proposed route is unlikely to provide a high-quality climbing experience, consider leaving it undeveloped. Vermont still has many outstanding opportunities, and preserving space for exceptional routes often benefits the climbing community more than developing a route that offers little independent character or climbing quality. .
Cleaning and Preparation
Cleaning a route requires balancing safety with preservation of the cliff’s natural character.
Developers are encouraged to:
- Remove loose rock thoughtfully where necessary for safety.
- Use hand and power tools only to the extent reasonably necessary.
- Refrain from manufacturing or enhancing holds.
- Suspend development activities whenever they could interfere with other climbers’ safety or experience.
- Use a ground spotter whenever practical while cleaning or equipping routes.
Fixed Hardware
Safe, durable hardware is fundamental to responsible route development.
Developers should:
- Use high-quality stainless-steel hardware of appropriate size and design for the rock, expected loads, and Vermont’s climate.
- Become familiar with current best practices published by organizations such as the American Safe Climbing Association.
- Use installation techniques appropriate to the hardware manufacturer and the rock type.
- Seek advice from experienced developers whenever questions arise.
- Reuse existing bolt holes whenever possible during hardware replacement– an important exception being when the original placement was in questionable rock.
- Camouflage fixed protection to minimize visual impact. Use rock-colored hangers or paint normal hangers matte gray, matte black, or whatever best blends in with the specific rock type.
Adding bolts to existing routes should occur only with the agreement of the original route developer whenever possible.
Replacing aging or unsafe hardware is encouraged and represents an important contribution to Vermont climbing.
Stewardship Beyond Development
Establishing a route is only one part of stewardship.
Developers are encouraged to remain engaged with the climbing areas they help create by:
- Monitoring the condition of routes and fixed hardware.
- Documenting new routes and significant hardware replacements whenever practical, and sharing that information through guidebooks, CRAG-VT, or other community resources to help future climbers and route developers. Addressing erosion or other environmental concerns when practical.
- Participating in trail work, cliff cleanups, and stewardship events.
- Promptly sharing information about hardware failures or environmental concerns with the broader climbing community.
- Remaining open to community feedback as climbing areas evolve over time.
Route development is an ongoing commitment. Continuing to care for climbing areas after a route is established helps ensure that they remain safe, sustainable, and enjoyable for future climbers.
Risk and Responsibility
Rock climbing and route development are inherently hazardous activities.
CRAG-VT does not inspect, install, certify, or maintain climbing hardware in Vermont and cannot guarantee the safety of any route or anchor.
Every climber is responsible for evaluating fixed hardware, natural protection, rock quality, and environmental conditions before climbing. Likewise, every route developer assumes responsibility for the decisions made during the development process.
A Living Statement
Climbing ethics, equipment, and environmental understanding continue to evolve. This statement reflects the current consensus of many Vermont climbers and should be viewed as a living document rather than a permanent standard.
Thoughtful route development has shaped Vermont climbing for generations. By approaching new route development with care, humility, and respect for both the resource and the climbing community, today’s developers help ensure that future generations will enjoy the same opportunities that we value today.
CRAG-VT encourages everyone interested in route development to become part of that tradition of stewardship.